If you’re gay, chances are high that you’ve been to Puerto Vallarta in Jalisco, Mexico.
Chances are even higher that, like a good man, you lust after Puerto Vallarta so much that you want to hang out as often as possible. We visit at least once a year, sometimes two or three times, so we also fall into a travel rut because we’re so familiar with the town and adore the people there so much.
One warm summer day, we were invited to join a group of gay journalists to fly into Puerto Vallarta, but not stay there.
Intrigue and curiosity at the prospect of not stepping foot inside Blondie’s, La Palapa, Archie’s Wok, or The Iguana Restaurant & Tequila Bar, or parking under an umbrella on Los Muertos Beach led us north to the neighboring state of Nayarit.
Of course, there’s nothing stopping you from staying in PV for a weekend before journeying into Nayarit, but if you’ve been to Puerto Vallarta as many times as we have, we highly encourage you to tap into your adventurous side and leave the gay bars and go-go boys behind—at least this once.
We stayed in several towns and hotels across the state, so expect to read all about each of them in the coming months.
Today, however, we kick off our newfound infatuation with Nayarit by showcasing the furthest town visited during our recent immersion—Jala.
Pronounced the same as the first part of Hollaback Girl (Holla!), it’s one of Mexico’s growing number of Magical Towns (also known as Pueblos Mágicos de México). We’d certainly love to visit them all and if you’ve yet to discover one for yourself, add them to your bucket list. Starting here, of course.
In Jala, you’ll wander along meandering cobblestone streets lined with vibrantly colorful buildings in the shadows of lush, cloud-capped mountains. During your exploration, you’ll encounter one friendly face after another among the fewer than 6,000 residents. They’ll know you’re a tourist, for sure, because in towns this small, everyone knows when someone’s not local.
Naturally, there’s no official LGBTQ scene, but when six gay men showed up in even the most remote places and smallest businesses, nobody blinked an eye. In every case, they generously welcomed us to their town.
In the center of town, the 19th-century parish church rises like a tribute to old Mexico, history practically pouring out of its doors. (Fun fact: We didn’t burst into flames upon entering!) Other old buildings, some now in ruins, cement the town with a sense of mystery and, indeed, magic.
We were supposed to picnic at the base of the active Ceboruco Volcano, but conditions made visiting hazardous, so we sadly didn’t get to experience that. But what a reason to return!
Read on for some of our favorite experiences during an enjoyable exploration of Jala.
Getting There
Step 1: Fly to Puerto Vallarta.
Step 2: Drive (or ride) to Jala.
The drive to Jala from Puerto Vallarta takes about 2.5 hours, allowing for at least one stop with no traffic or delays on the main roads. We’ve never driven ourselves in Mexico and don’t plan to start, but that’s definitely an option if a car rental sounds like a good plan. If you’re comfortable driving in another country, it definitely opens up your flexibility once you’re in town.
Otherwise, hire a driver from one of dozens of transportation companies that can take you directly to Jala. Once you’re there, the entire town’s walkable, and you can ask around for a taxi that can drive you to the waterfall, volcano or other nearby attractions. You can also have your hotel set up transportation for you.
Where to Stay
Jala, as you’ve probably started to gather, offers plenty of ways to relax and disconnect, but you won’t likely need more than two nights to fully experience everything you want to do. Although, the all-suite Nokari Quinta Boutique may tempt you to stay a couple of nights longer.
The hotel features four different types of suites, most of them less than $200 US, depending on the time of year. An on-site lobby restaurant, rooftop bar and restaurant make it easy to stick close to your room if you need a few hours’ reprieve from exploring. There’s also a private pool for hotel guests a short block away with on-demand beverage service from the hotel.
Where to Eat
We were only in town for a quick overnight, so we didn’t have too much time to eat in many places. That said, we made the most of our short stay.
For lunch our first day, we walked a couple of blocks to Fonda Doña Melva. These kinds of small, family-run businesses make us immensely happy because they truly deliver the local experience. And some really delightful food. Most of the entrées can be seen via photos hanging all over the restaurant, making it easy to pick out what looks good. Try the chorreada for sure (pictured above).
The two Nokari restaurants were incredible. We had sunset dinner on the rooftop and the experience was magnificent, from the food and the views to the gentle sound of rain on the cobblestones below, accompanied by soft music.
Breakfast in the lobby restaurant also wowed. Super fresh food, attentive service and the ultimate convenience made it a spectacular spot for fueling up before we hiked to the waterfall.
What to Do
Between June and September, El Salto Waterfall runs the strongest and it’s well worth the short 30-minute hike from where you park to access the trail. Make sure to ask a local for exact directions to the starting point if you’re driving yourself. It’s not well marked (if at all). Bring water shoes if you have them because you have to walk in water for a short stretch to reach the actual falls. But it’s so worth it. We felt like we’d been transported to Hawaii for a minute.
Each August 15, the Jala Corn Festival will give you a real sense of the community in Jala. The lively party celebrates the local corn crops and you’ll find plenty of ways to enjoy the sweet vegetable, from tacos and sopes to quesadillas and tamales.
Where to Shop
Take home a bit of Jala to cook in your own kitchen with a stop at La Jaleña, a local spice shop selling a variety of hot, hotter and hotter-than-hell powdered spices exclusive to the village. They’re extremely affordable (and make great gifts), plus we use our traditional spicy chili at least twice a week when we cook. They’re also great sprinkled on fresh fruit as pictured above during our visit.
There’s plenty more to explore, too, so take our suggestions as a jumping-off point. Then, explore Jala and the rest of Nayarit to create your own dream itineary.
Jala, Nayarit
visitnayarit.travel
Main photo courtesy of Steven Lindsey
